A REPORT ON THE ECONOMIC IMPACT OF THE WINE INDUSTRY IN VIRGINIA

While most of the time these columns are about wineries and more culinary trends involving wine in Virginia, I believe it is important that the effect the wine industry has had on the economy of our Commonwealth be made known.

On February 2, 2012, Governor McDonnell’s office issued a press release concerning the study, The Economic Impact of Wine and Wine Grapes on the State of Virginia – 2010, commissioned by the Virginia Wine Board.  The very next day, Todd P. Haymore, Secretary of Agriculture and Forestry, presented it to a convention of the Virginia Vineyard Association at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville, Virginia.

In short, the facts and figures released show the phenomenal growth and impact this industry has had.  According to the study, the wine industry contributes $747,000,000.00 dollars (almost three quarters of a billion dollars) annually to the Virginia economy representing a 106 percent increase over the $361,834,000 that was shown in the last impact study in 2005.  In addition, in a time when unemployment is quite an issue, jobs in the Virginia wine industry have grown by 50 percent from 3,162 in 2005 to 4,753 in 2010.  This increase in employment stimulated an 86 percent increase in wages from $84 million dollars to $156 million over the same time period.

At the end of 2010, Virginia was ranked number twelve in the country with 193 wineries.  Currently, the Commonwealth is number five in the nation with 210 wineries, producing 462,000 cases, or 5.5 million bottles of wine, which is a record high.  It should be noted that Virginia is the fifth largest producer of wine grapes in the nation.

Speaking of grape production (not to be confused with wine production, I am referring to vineyards), the number of grape growers grew by 47 per cent from 262 to 386 between 2005 and 2010 with the number of grape bearing acres of land increasing from 2000 in 2005 to 2700 in 2010, or approximately a 35 per cent rate of growth.

Two of the most important figures concerning the impact of the wine and vineyard industry are taxes and tourism in the state.  Tax revenue in 2010 was almost $43 million dollars, an encouragement to our General Assembly to increase the investment of tax credits to growers of more than just a paltry $250,000 (that is right, $250,000 for a $43 million return, nice investment).

Wine Enthusiast Magazine, in a fall 2011 issue, listed Virginia as one of the top ten tourism places to see for those interested in wine and wineries.  This was international in scope, with the state going up against many well known sites.  Wine related tourists in Virginia have increased from 1 million in 2005 to 1.62 million in 2010, or an increase of 62 per cent.  

These facts and figures, in a time when many face hard times in a difficult economy, are quite an encouragement concerning the state of our Commonwealth and the contribution that the wine industry has made towards improving it.   

The information in this column were taken from two sources:
    Press release from the Office of Governor Bob McDonnell, dated February 2, 2012.
    THE ECONOMIC IMPACT OF WINE AND WINE GRAPES ON THE STATE OF VIRGINIA-2010  by Frank, Rimmerman + Co. LLP,  updated February, 2012 and commissioned by the Virginia Wine Board

BURIED TREASURE

Very carefully she probed, closing her eyes so that she could concentrate.  After a brief moment, her concentration was rewarded with the discovery that she had hoped was there.

Thinking that this may be more difficult than she originally thought, she nevertheless continued on, surprised by the size and consistency of it.  How many times before had she been on this same kind of quest, either to find something too small to be worth the effort or of a texture that was totally unacceptable?  This was definitely the mother load.

Carefully she worked under the forward edge, hoping not to break it off or to push it further back.  So far, so good.  In the back of her mind she was praying no one would come in to distract her from her quarry.  It was none of their business, something that few people understood.  Very gingerly, she lifted, as bit by bit whatever was holding it broke free.  Almost there, good.

Finally, after one last calculated tug, it was totally free.  Now came the part that was just as difficult, getting it out in the open where it could be examined.  Slowly she picked it up and with painstaking care pulled it forward, careful not to rush, attending to her grip lest it slip and fall back beyond reach.  

There!  It was out in the light, to be seen by all.  After a brief but curious perusal, she wiped her finger with a tissue and threw it away.

Gene Boley, points to ponder.

There seems to have been quite an urgency recently to make sure former Caroline football coach Gene Boley was removed from the position he had held only two years.  Several questions come to mind when thinking about what happened.

Would the same accusations against Boley have been made if the team had had a better record than 2-8 this past season?  Many people feel that if a team has a bad season, the blame has to go somewhere, and this usually means towards the coach.

Coach Boley brought a level of discipline to the Cavaliers they had not known for some time.  Whether or not they were ready for his manner is a question that only the players can answer.  In speaking with a number of them, both upper and lower class-men, one thing was constant, discipline was needed.

What about off the field?  There were many instances in which Coach Boley acted not only as a mentor, but also provided for players whose family situations presented needs that needed outside assistance.  He did not do it to make points with parents, he did it because he cared about his athletes.   Several of them made the statement that Boley did not just teach football, he tried to instill behavior patterns that they could use the rest of their lives.

If a new coach comes in, how long is he going to have before people get disgusted with him?  Gene Boley was the third coach the Cavalier football team has had in five years.  Can one really expect a turn around of a program in just two years after what this team has been through?

Whether or not it was correct to replace Boley is not my decision to make, but it is important that we think about our reaction to the situation the new coach is stepping into, and do our best to support him in it.

A review of Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines

Natalie MacLean’s  Unquenchable:  A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines is one of the books that will remain on my active bookshelf as an important piece of reference material as well as being a great read.

In her quest, Ms. MacLean finds not only bargains, but also goes into some depths as she travels to different areas around the globe where wines are made.  Her style of writing gives the reader an insiders view of what goes into the production of a wine in a particular region and what makes it so unique.  For example her piece about the Rieslings of Germany gives a whole new appreciation of a wine that is often in our American viewpoint considered only for women and sissies.  Although I have long appreciated a good Riesling, my understanding of it was heightened by what Ms. MacLean had to say.

Natalie MacLean’s humor and storytelling alone is worth the price of the book.  Far from being a wine snob, she inserts in this book the pure joy of wine along with the many anecdotal comments as she continues her process of educating the reader.  That being said, even if one has no interest in wine (oh, cruel throw of dice), Unquenchable will leave the reader with a sense of pure enjoyment at her excellent style, and if not careful, they may learn something of the various cultures and geography in this wonderful world of wine in which we live.

A very important aspect of Unquenchable:  A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines is its value as a reference.   Ms. MacLean does not approach wine from the popular angles that make her love of wine and its buzz a fad, but gives the reader a truly fundamental basis for what wine is and how it is effect on the areas where individual varietals are produced.  

Unquenchable is a must read for all who enjoy reading and an excellent reference for even the most advanced vinophile.

SPORTS QUIPS: A QUARTERBACK ON THE RUN

Recently, while standing on the side lines covering a high school football game, I heard the following conversation between the starting quarterback and one of the coaches:

“Coach, I can’t go back in!”
“Why, what’s the matter?”
“I can’t go back in, I have to go the bathroom.”
“Well, son, you are wearing black pants, go ahead.”
“Come on, coach, I have to go bad. I have to GO REALLLLLY BAD!”

At this point, the coach gave his keys to the field house to the quarterback who ran very gingerly but fast as possible to take care of business. In the mean time the backup quarterback started warming up. Fortunately, the starter made it back in time to go on the field when the offense took over the ball.

Little Washington Winery: Pioneer Proud

It is funny what one finds when they clean. In the case of Carl and Donna Henrikson, they cleaned their kitchen and found a winery. So the story goes that Carl and Donna laughingly tell while sitting in their tasting room enjoying the amazing view some six hundred feet up looking out towards Old Rag Mountain in Washington, Virginia.

Carl, who has been involved in various business ventures from the CEO of an IT company to the chairman of the board of supervisors of a neighboring county (all of which he describes as sales), gives the appearance of a man who has just shaken a troupe of monkeys off his back and is enjoying the relief. A wine aficionado since the age of thirteen when a sommelier took him under wing and began his education in wine, Carl began making wine in 2003, storing six gallon containers of fermenting wine in his kitchen. In 2009, with their children grown, deciding it was time for a life style change, Carl and his wife, Donna, began the process of finding a property that would suit them. After looking at various properties, they began a year long process of purchasing the twenty five acres on which they now live, moving in on November 1, 2010.

Donna, who grew up in Idaho where the farm her family owned practiced sustained farming, is no stranger to hard work. After a career with the government while living in Northern Virginia, she commented she was glad to get out in the country. Both Carl and Donna have stated that they are really enjoying the change of scenery, complete with black bears that occasionally stroll through the property. Donna’s plans for a garden large enough to feed her and Carl have had to include contingency plans for feeding their large furry neighbors.

Planting one thousand Viognier vines in the rocky soil of Rappahannock County is enough to test whether or not any vision is real or just a pipe dream. Despite being jarred while attempting to auger the holes necessary to plant coupled with having to water by hand one thousand vines, the Henriksons persevered and are looking forward to expanding their vineyard on the north facing slope that fronts their property.

Pioneers had to build their own dwellings so Carl and Donna do not qualify as pioneers, but they are in the process of remodeling the comfortable yet updated tasting room with a view that will enhance any wine poured there. In addition, many customers come with picnic baskets and enjoy the scenery while drinking some of the wonderful wines that are offered. The addition of stone steps and a large deck on the back (where bear watching is encouraged at a safe distance) are just part of the many plans for this extraordinarily beautiful facility.

Partnering with Potomac Point Winery in Stafford County, Virginia, two wines presently bear the Little Washington Winery label:
-Little Washington White – Mesmerized
A refreshing blend that combines the floral aromatics of Viognier with the enticing lilac aroma of Vidal Blanc. On the palate, bright citrus and melon flavors are accented by herbal overtones that would be a superb match with a plate of fettucine and an herbal cream sauce.

-Little Washington Red – George
Soft tannins and concentrated fruit give this Cabernet Merlot blend perfectly balanced flavor and body. The black cherry, currant, and green olive aromas – combined with mint, tobacco and tea-leaf tones give a rich supple taste that cries out Goat Cheese Gouda as a paring.

Besides their own wines, to be introduced at Little Washington Winery is the Dirt Road Flight. An ever changing group of artisan wines from all over the country that will make tasting a journey to the farthest regions where craft wines are found. Ranging from the Tedeschi Vineyards in Maui, Hawaii to the Finger Lakes of upstate New York, wines that will not be found in the large package stores will be available for tasting.

Carl and Donna are presenting a complete wine tasting experience with excellent wines that reflect the growth and sophistication that is becoming a hallmark of Virginia Wines. By adding the Dirt Road Flight, they present a concept that reflects confidence and integrity seen in very few wine tasting rooms. Even though they did not build their own dwelling, maybe they are pioneers after all.

The grand opening for the Little Washington Winery will begin with a ribbon cutting scheduled for 11:11:11 AM on November 11, 2011 (that’s right, 11:11:11 on 11/11/11) with an open house scheduled from 11:00 AM until 5:00 PM.

INGLESIDE’S B…

INGLESIDE’S BILL AND MARIA SWAIN:
A PASSION REVEALED

It was once said that Ingleside Winery was Westmoreland County’s best kept secret. However, when one takes a good look at the wine operation there, it is evident that the real secret is Bill and Maria Swain, wine maker and assistant, respectively.

Bill, who started as a geology major at UC Davis, was fortunate enough to have roommates from the Napa Valley who introduced him to the wines of California. Finding that wine and wine production fit his personality extremely well with the emphasis on science and art both found in the process and development of wine, he graduated with a degree in wine from UC Davis. The sparkle in Bill’s eye when he talks of his life’s work reveals the strong passion for wine that exists for this quiet hard working man.

“Wine is a way of life. No one comes into this business to make money, the lifestyle living in a rural farm area, working hard, seeing what you work so hard at come to fruition are all attractions. The people with money in what we do have made it somewhere else,” replied Bill when asked why one would want to work in a vineyard and winery.

In 1973, Bill Swain began working at Charles Krug wineries as a cellar rat and eventually made his way up the food chain to assistant winemaker, where in 1977 a head hunter discovered him and Bill became the winemaker at Fresco Blanco Vineyard in Mendocino. Eventually starting his own winery, the Hood River Winery, in the Columbia Gorge, proved to be profitable for the next seventeen years until the education of his three girls made him reconsider his rural surroundings.

Selling the Hood River Winery, the Swains moved to the Seattle, Washington area where for the next three plus years Bill worked for a group of vineyards owned by the American Tobacco Company in the Woodenville, Washington area that included Chateau St. Michelle and Columbia Crest. Bill worked as a production coordinator for large wineries in the area which included Round Hill Winery where his brother Mark was the winemaker, until again a head hunter found him and referred him to a company in Venezuela.

With his adventurous spirit in high gear, Bill went to work for Bodegas Pomar (a joint effort of Polar Brewery and the French Martel Brandy) who was looking for a winemaker with a more scientific outlook as opposed to the previous traditional way making wine which it was reported had caused some detriment to the winery by the previous winemaker.

The rise of Chavez in Venezuela and the tragedy of 911, after four years, made it apparent that his time in Venezuela best be over. Returning to Napa and finding very little that seemed to suit, Bill came to the East Coast at the suggestion of his daughter and after interviewing at some of the wineries in Virginia, came to Ingleside where he has been since 2002.

Maria, born in Venezuela, lived in Houston, Texas from the age of five until thirteen when she returned to complete high school and college at the UCLA (not related to UCLA in California), graduating with a degree in food science. Working as a lab technician for a research microbiologist at Polar Brewing, in 1999, she became a lab tech intern at Bodegas Pomar working directly for Bill because she spoke fluent English and could help the Americano.

In February, 2002 when Bill left for Napa, Maria followed. His first marriage long since over, Bill and Maria were married on May 3, 2002. Returning to Round Hill Winery, again as an intern, Maria took advantage of education benefits to take classes that fed her growing passion and fascination for wine.

Arriving at Ingleside, Maria jumped into production, working again under her husband and mentor, Bill, as a cellar rat doing whatever was needed. Now in sales, she still keeps a hand in production as needed. And her passion grows. Whereas Bill has a sparkle in his eye when speaking of wine, Maria has a flame in hers, coupled with the intensity of her voice shows a passion for wine that belies her Venezuelan heritage.

Two expressed passions working together in one winery. How much better can it get? Bill and Maria Swain, Westmoreland county’s best kept secret.

2009 NUGAN ESTATE SHIRAZ

2009 NUGAN ESTATE SHIRAZ
VISION
REVERINA

Out of the Willbrigge area in North South West Australia comes a Shiraz unlike any that has been tasted for quite a while.  The deep garnet color is as inviting as the nose of dark fruit and tar, with some oaking making its presence known.  But how many wines have had this same promising bouquet only to disappoint the taster with a flat or tannic taste?

Nugan presents a Shiraz that is a balanced taste of dark plum, spice and chocolate,  followed by a mid range of earthiness and concludes with a rather lengthy finish withjust enough oak to wrap up the entire experience.  Although there is a slight acidity, the overall taste is one of a very balanced, smooth texture.

While this wine would pair well with dark meats and large meals, the taste structure is such that it would also do well solo.  This is one wine that should not be missed.

WINES OF ARGENTINA: TAKE THREE

Looking at the wines of Argentina, whether from a historic or a geo-political veiwpoint, has proven to be a most interesting and fascinating study.  Whatever the past, the proof of the validity of the Argentinian wine industry is no more evident than in the varietals produced currently.

The most well known of the Argentine varietals is the Malbec.  Although its popularity has recently climbed into the forefront of the wine industry, the varietal has been developed over the last one hundred years in Mendoza next to the Andes mountains.  With a small, dark and juicy fruit, the degree of reliance on irrigation allows growers the ability to control the quality of the fruit.  In some of the higher altitudes around Mendoza, the fruit has a thick skin with high tannins   and acidity making for a robust wine; while in the lower climates the thinner skin grapes are juicer making for lighter wines.  Beacause of the ample use of oak, Malbec often carries the flavors of vanilla, spice, and some tobacco flavors.

With the Italian immigration of the 1890’s into Argentina came the Bonarda Piomentese varietal of grape from the Piedmont region of Italy.  A very prolific grape in the Argentine climate, it was until recently the most widely planted grape until Malbec took over.  One of the last grapes to be harvested, the Bonarda grape produces a wine that is light and fruity with cherry and plum flavors, having light tannins and medim acidity.

Tempranillo, a native varietal from northern Spain, produces a light bodied wine due to its low acidity and low sugar.  Because it is lighter bodied, it is often used for blending, typically with Garnacha in Rioja.  The Argentine use of oak in aging this wine gives a dark fruited flavor with lots of plum, with shades of vanilla and spice.  Due to its sensitivity, Tempranillo  does very well in cooler areas and with water management, which makes it an excellent varietal for the areas around Mendoza.  Because it ripens early, it does not require a long growing season making it all the more versatile.

One of my favorite varietals, Sangiovese, is best known as a basis for the many Tuscan blends such as Chianti and Brunello di Montelcino.  Due to its acidity, it ages very well developing a medium fruit flavor and often has a very dry finish.  Like Tempranillo, Sangiovese  is an early ripening varietal in the Mendozan climate as opposed to other areas where it ripens fairly late.  The few vintners who use the Sangiovese are those who are very prestigious in the Argentine wine industry using their wines mostly in the export market.xs.

Among the many other varietals grown in Argentina are those more familiar Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.  Argentina is not just a haven for wines that have not made it as a single varietal in other countries, it is a treasure that is just being discovered.  Awaiting the next installment in this wonderful history are wine lovers everywhere that have only in the last one hundred years come to appreciate what lies at the foot of the Andes Mountains.

GARY AND LINDA: NO BARBIE AND KEN

The thought of someone in the wedding business usually brings to mind an individual who has spent their lives fantasizing about the perfect wedding with Prince Charming on his white horse and the beautiful princess adorned just so, in a fairy tale setting.  Not at Eden Try.  While the region’s premier wedding venue located in Spotsylvania County does offer a fairy tale setting, neither Gary Gratopp nor Linda Morrison  led the charmed Barbie and Ken type of life one may think of when visiting there.

A Michigan native, Gary Gratopp has always been a business man even while attending Ferris State College where he studied business and drama.  Gary reported throwing parties at his family home, charging those who attended and then splitting the proceeds with a few friends that helped in the event.

After college, at the suggestion of a friend, Gary applied with the Detroit police department where he was immediately hired.  Fresh out of college with a profound street naiveté, Gary was immediately challenged when approaching a suspect, found himself flat on his back with the suspect on top soiling his brand new shiny uniform while beating him in the face.  His experienced partner laughed and said, ”College boy, cuff ‘em first, talk to them later.”  Apparently Gary learned quickly, soon becoming a plain clothes officer and undercover detective in major crimes.

While working for the police department, Gary ventured into real estate,  buying and renovating homes, amassing an inventory of higher end residences. After ten years in law enforcement, Gary was forced to retire due to injuries sustained on the job (it was reported he has had approximately fourteen operations) and went into the family business marketing color to show case products, a field he has expanded and is still involved in today.

Linda Morrison has led no fairy tale childhood.  Born in October, the ninth child of single mother whose coal mining husband had abandoned the family, there was no money for any medical care so Linda was born in a convent in Hazzard, Kentucky.  Sworn to a vow of poverty, the nuns had no heat, and because she weighed only two and one half pounds at birth, Linda was carried constantly and held close to absorb what body heat she could.  The following Thanksgiving, she was adopted and raised by Russ and Mary Rolfes.

Refusing assistance for school from her father, a career federal government employee, Linda began working for the government after graduating from high school, and for the next fifteen years attended night school, completing her college degree in business management and contract administration.  Working for the DOD, she transferred to the FAA where she recently chose an early retirement while still at the top of her profession and is now under contract to the government as a consultant.

The fairy tale begins with Gary walking his mother down the aisle to marry Linda’s father.  Here Gary and Linda met but did not ride off into the sunset.  They remained friends for four or five years and then started a long distance relationship which has developed into what they now have.     Soon after their relationship began, Linda decided to invest in some of Gary’s renovation projects.  The very first one she participated in was said to have brought her to tears at the idea of putting money into a house that apparently was  in much need of repair.  Reassured of Gary’s proficiency in remodeling, she was very pleased at the outcome.

While remodeling Eden Try (which was supposed to be only an investment project), both Gary and Linda were approached by lots of people who wanted to either have their wedding pictures taken or their actual wedding to occur there.  It did not take long for the marketing mind of Gary and the business management mind of Linda to figure out what they had.  From these beginnings Eden Try has grown and continues to grow and develop into the leading wedding site for the entire Fredericksburg area.